Feb 9 2011

Kitchen Therapy

With all these easy meals I tend to make when things get really hectic and stressed I seem to forget how nice it is to actually get into the kitchen and cook up something that takes time and care; a little looking after. Things that make the house smell wonderful and really impress those you serve even if it is only myself and M. When I am in my kitchen diligently chopping and slicing, stirring and testing everything else seems to just slip away. I guess you could call it my therapy; my form of meditation. I have decided that I need more of that. I need to just relax and make something yummy! With that in mind and the cold, snowy weather I set my eyes on making a traditional slow cooked French Onion Soup. I know it doesn’t sound like much but it can be really therapeutic. What with all the slicing of the onions that comes with a good cry, the slow, gentle caramelization of the onions that invokes a great deal of patience; you cannot rush that. Then the release of  deglazing the pan with its sudden and exciting burst of steam! Then the slow and methodical simmering to make sure everything comes together just right! Let us not forget  toasting a hearty slice of  baguette making sure not to burn it  and all the satisfaction of  melting the cheese just right so it is just slightly brown and perfectly melty as it sits atop the lovenly cared for soup,  I mean who needs a shrink right? Well lets get right to it so you too can have a little kitchen therapy!

Recipe:
2 lbs. sweet onions sliced (give or take)
3 T. butter
1 T. honey (or a sprinkle of sugar but I like the taste of the honey)
1/4 cup Cognac (or brandy)
1 T. flour
1 cup of dry white wine
2.5 cups chicken broth or stock
2.5 cups beef broth or stock
2 bay leaves
2-4 sprigs of fresh thyme
salt and pepper – liberally

Topping:
1 Fresh or stale baguette sliced think
1 – 2 cups of Gruyere or Emmenthal cheese, sliced or grated (I like sliced)
1/2 clove of fresh whole garlic
Spinkling of fresh thyme leave for garnish

First you start out by slicing all those onions. You will have what seems to be an exorbinant amount! You can take your time and slice each onion meticulously, this will really induce a good a cry! Or you can do what I did and employ the use of your handy Mandolin or V-Slicer. It makes quick work of those onions but be careful not to slice your finger, pain is not therapeutic!

When finished you should have a pile that looks something like this.

Now in a large dutch oven melt 2 T. of the butter until just foamy over medium heat then add the onions to the pot making sure to stir completely and coat all the onions with the melted butter. As soon as the onions begin to turn slightly transparent you can add the honey and some salt. Again, stir to coat and melt the honey. Turn the heat to medium low and begin to caramelize the onions, stirring from time to time to redistribute the onions. This will take a good while, about 45 minutes to and hour; trust me it is worth every minute. Don’t forget to check in on them, you don’t want anything to burn!

When you have successfully caramelized the onions you should have something that looks like this; isn’t that beautiful!

Once you have reached this stage the fun begins. Cognac has a way of bringing out the fun in things doesn’t it? Ok, now increase the heat to medium high and as soon as the pot comes to temp (it will be quick), with flat edge wooden spoon in hand poor in the Cognac and immediately begin scraping up all the good bits from the bottom of the pot. Continue to do this until the Cognac has almost completely evaporated.  You can reduce heat again to medium and throw in the last T. of butter. As soon as that melts sprinkle in the flour and completely stir to combine. Cook the flour, butter and onion mixture for at least 1 -2 minutes, you don’t want a flour taste in the finished product. Now you can add your liquids. First start with the white wine. Let that cook down a little before adding the rest of the liquid. This helps to concentrate the flavors. I know it seems like a pain but trust me these little things make a big difference. Now add the remaining 5 cups of liquid, the bay leaves, thyme, pepper and test for salt; depending on your stock/broth you may need more, less, none. Give a good stir to combine and bring to simmer. Now lower the flame and gently simmer for a minimum of 1 hour, if you have more time you can on very low heat simmer for up to 3. It tastes great now but if you leave it overnight and reheat the next day it is even better! Don’t forget before serving take out the bay leaves and the remaining twigs from the thyme.

Now for something completely different!

Slice your baguette in either thick rounds or on the bias depending on your serving bowl for the soup. You want enough bread to cover 90% of the bowl (give or take). Place bread slices under the broiler till just turning a light gold. Take out and scrape the toasted bread with the fresh garlic half. Now this is not traditional but I think it adds a nice subtle hint of garlic.

Ok, now you have a choice. You can ladle out the soup in your oven proof serving vessels, place the croutons on top and layer the cheese on the soup covering the bowl then broil until all is bubbly and slightly browned. This looks great and is very traditional. However, it creates VERY hot dishes and can be not the easiest to serve. Not to mention you have to tell everyone that the bowls are hot and then they will all have to touch them; ‘cos of course you are a liar! Then you will be treating burn victims and by the time you get to your soup it will be cold! Ok maybe that is an exaggeration but it could happen! Just to be safe and prevent anything like that from happening I place the toasted croutons on a cookie sheet sprayed with oil and generously layer on the cheese making sure to get some around the edges so that when it melt it will fall down the sides like a skirt. Then place back in the broiler. Meanwhile I ladle out the soup in my bowls and just as the cheesy croutons are done and all melty and wonderful I scrape them up, cheese skirt and all and place them on top of the soup. Garnish with some torn thyme leave and you are good to serve. No bowl burns here! And trust me it looks just as impressive!

Now I know this is a bit time consuming but it truly is one of the best winter comfort, elegant, impressive, and down right tasty soups going! You can serve this as a starter to a beautiful multi-course dinner party or like we did along side a fresh hot roast beef sandwich on a cold winters night! And the best part, the longer it sits in the fridge the better it gets! But it won’t last that long! Oh and it freezes well too, how convenient!

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Sep 11 2009

Summer Hiatus Ends

Talk about taking a hiatus and with no warning! This summer has been crazy to say the least. Between work and play I have had no time for much of anything. But rest assured I have still been cooking, dinning out and taking lots of pictures! I know I promised a run down of the Burlington Jazz Festival back in June so I will give you a brief summary…. AWSOME! OK I will elaborate a little on that. We only went 1 night and we only heard 1 band but the night was wonderful. We ate at a small French style bistro called Luenig’s Bistro right on Church Street Burlington and listened to a 1940’s era jazz band that even played a few French toons. It was definitely memorable to say the least.

Trio Gusto featuring Mike Martin

Now on to the food! We ate at Luenigs Bistro on Church street. We started off with gourmet sliders. A trio of mini burgers each different and unique; venison with apple and onion ragu, lamb with frio gras, and beef with south west flavors. Over all it was very good. My favorite of course was the lamb with the frio gras. It was rich and decadant; perfect for a small bite. The venison had great flavors but unfortunately it does not take much to over cook such lean meat and it was on the dry side.

(font: Venison, middle: Lamb, back: Beef)

Gourmet Sliders (font: Venison, middle: Lamb, back: Beef)

For entrees I had softshell crab tempura fried atop a a lightly dressed mesclun and herb salad and topped with an avocado, corn and mango salsa. It was perfect for a summers night. It was a special that evening and not on their regular menu which is a bit more French.

Soft Shell Crab

M had a spiffed up classic; filet mignon topped with flash fried onions and drizzled with a red wine reduction atop the most sinful mashed potatoes around. They were roughly mashed leaving their red skins scattered throughout and blended with cream, butter and crab!

Filet with Sinful Potatoes

Filet with Sinful Potatoes

For desert we each got our own, M was not in the mood to share. He got the sugar pie and I a pinot noir sorbet. The sugar pie was something neither of us has had before but from what I gather pretty popular around here and in Quebec which we are not all that far from. It is sweet but not as sweet as you would think. It is similar to carmel in the center with a cookie like crust. Served with ice cream it was quite nice. But honestly I really enjoyed my sorbet. It was not overly sweet or overly “winey”. It was a nice light treat after a pretty big dinner. We also enjoyed our desserts with a nice small bottle of Canadian Ice Wine; a weakness of M’s, who has now turned me into a fan.

Pinot Noir SorbetSugar Pie

We rested after diner finishing our wine listening to the music until they had just about finished and enjoyed a nice walk on Church Street back to our car. It was a very nice night and I am sorry it has taken me so long to recount it for you.

After all this time, I have so many photos and meals to write about I am sure I will busy for some time recounting everything. Now as fall is creeping in it is time to settle down a bit. Spend some quality time at home next to the fire (yes I have had it going already!) and enjoy the cooler weather and the bounty of fall. Soon my farmers market will be closing for the season. I am sure I will have much more time to blog.<–>

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